vintage kimono 3
*** 着物の種類 variety of kimono ***
黒留袖 黒地の着物の背中心、両胸、両外袖の五ヶ所に日向紋を染め抜き、裾に縫い目で模様が途切れない模様(絵羽模様)を描いた着物で、既婚女性の第一礼装。結婚式の場で新郎新婦の母親、仲人夫人、親族の既婚女性が着用する。
Kurotomesode Black kimono, patterned only below the waistline, kurotomesode are the most formal kimono for married women. They are often worn by the mothers of the bride and groom at weddings. Kurotomesode usually have five kamon (family crests) which are printed on the sleeves, chest and back of the kimono.
色留袖 黒留袖同様、裾が縫い目で模様が途切れない絵羽模様になっている。
Irotomesode irotomesode are single-colour kimono, patterned only below the waistline. They are slightly less formal than kurotomesode, and are worn by married women, usually close relatives of the bride and groom at a wedding. May have three or five kamon
振袖 未婚女性の第一礼装となる着物。第一礼装の場合、五つ紋をつけるのが基本だが、振袖の場合は三つ紋、一つ紋、無紋でも差し支えない。振袖は、袖丈によって大振袖(約125cm)、振袖(約113〜114cm)、中振袖(約90〜106cm)、小振袖(約76〜87cm)と呼ばれ、袖が長いほうが格式が高いとされている。
Furisode A type of Kimono for unmarried women. It is worn at wedding, Coming-of-Age Day, and parties. The surface is designed with graceful patterns. The total length of the sleeves is longer than other Kimonos.
訪問着 訪問着は留袖や振袖の次に格が高く、未婚・既婚を問わず着られる準礼装の着物。英語のヴィジティングドレス(訪問服)と同格の着物として、明治時代に名付けられた。上流階級の公式な訪問用、社交着でしたから、三つ紋をつけていましたが、現在では、一つ紋にしたり、紋を省略することも多くなった。披露宴やパーティ、見合い、結納、茶会など多くの社交的な場に着ていくことが出来る着物。
Homongi A type of semiformal Kimono. Homongi can be worn at any age and any occasions from a formal ceremony to daily occasions such as visiting a friend's house. Homongi is less formal than the Furisode (formal dress for unmarried women). Sumptuous design completely covers Homongi.
付下げ 付下げは訪問着の代わりに着られる社交用の着物で、着ていける場所は、披露宴、年賀、初釜、表彰式、パーティなど、訪問着と同じ。
Tsukesage A type of Kimono that is slightly less formal than Homongi. Tailored to make the patterns on both sides go to the same direction (upward, to top of shoulders).
色無地 色無地は一色で染められた無地の着物。色無地において、格を決めるとともにポイントになるのが紋で、五つ紋を付けると非常に改まった式服になる。また、三つ紋を付けると無紋の訪問着より格上の準礼装になる。
Iromuji Single-colored kimono that may be worn by married and unmarried women. They are mainly worn to tea ceremonies. The dyed silk may be figured (rinzu, similar to jacquard), but has no differently colored patterns.
喪服 喪服には、黒喪服と色喪服があり、黒喪服は日向五つ紋付の黒無地の着物で、未婚・既婚を問わず喪の第一礼装。また、色喪服は黒以外の地味な色無地の着物で、未婚・既婚を問わず喪の準礼装となる。
Mofuku Black kimono for attending funerals.
小紋 繰り返し模様の型染め、または、手書きの着物を小紋といい、着物の模様は訪問着や付下げと違って、全体の模様を見ただけでは上下が分からない。
Komon "fine pattern" in English. Kimono with a small, repeated pattern throughout the garment. Somewhat casual: may be worn around town, or dressed up with a nice obi for a restaurant. Both married and unmarried women may wear komon.
Edo komon is a type of komon characterized by tiny dots arranged in dense patterns that form larger designs. The Edo komon dyeing technique originated with the samurai class during the Edo period. A kimono with this type of pattern is of the same formality as an iromuji, and when decorated with kamon, may be worn as visiting wear (equivalent to a tsukesage or houmongi).
Tsumugi A textile woven with hand-spun threads from cocoon fibers. It doesn't have a glossy nor smooth texture, but tasteful rough texture.
浴衣 浴衣は、貴人が入浴のときに着た湯帷子(ゆかたびら)がルーツといわれている。江戸時代、木綿の浴衣が湯上がりの着物として流行し、やがて夏のくつろぎ着となった。
Yukata Informal unlined summer kimono usually made of cotton, linen, or hemp. Today yukata are most often worn to outdoor festivals, by men and women of all ages. They are also worn at onsen ("hot springs") resorts, where they are often provided for the guests in the resort's own pattern.

*** 帯の種類 Obi ***
袋帯 袋帯は、豪華だが重くて締めにくい丸帯(普通の帯幅の倍に織ったものを二つ折りにして帯芯を入れて仕立てた帯)の変わりに、明治時代に作られた帯です。柄は、表地のみで裏地は無地。袋状に織って帯芯を入れて仕上げられていた為、袋帯と言う名前になりましたが、最近では、表と裏を別々に織ってかがり合わせて作るようにもなりました。袋帯は、おもにフォーマルな着物に用いることが多い帯です。
Fukuroobi The fukuro obi is a slightly less formal style than the maru obi. The fukuro obi was created in the late 1920s. The fukuro obi is made with a fine brocade or tapestry, which is patterned along 60% of its length on one side. The back of the fukuro obi may be lined with a plain silk or brocade, making it less expensive and less bulky to wear than the maru obi. Even though the fukuro obi is not as quite formal as the maru obi, the fukuro obi can be used for formal occasions. The length and width of the fukuro obi is the same as the maru obi. Thus, fukuro obi can hardly be distinguished from maru obi when tied over the kimono.
名古屋帯 大正時代に名古屋の女学校の先生が考案したことから、名古屋帯と呼ばれる。一般的に出来上がりの幅が30〜32cm、長さ360cm前後。素材や柄によって略礼装から普段のお出かけまで楽しめる。
柄の付き方で、全通柄(全体に一様に模様の入っているもの)、六通柄(お太鼓になる部分や 体に巻く終わりの部分など全体の六割程度が柄になっているもの)、お太鼓柄(胴の表になる 部分と背中の中心になる部分にポイント柄が入っているもの)がある。
Nagoyaobi The most convenient obi today is the nagoya obi. First produced in the city of Nagoya at the end of the Taisho era (1912-26), the Nagoya obi is lighter and simpler than the fukuro or maru obi. The nagoya obi is characterised by a portion of the obi being pre-folded and stitched in half. The narrow part wraps around the waist, while the wider part forms the bow of the obi tie. When worn, a nagoya obi is tied with a single fold, while a maru or a fukuro obi, being longer, is tied with a double fold. Most nagoya obi is less expensive a maru or fukuro obi. Nonetheless, its design can be stunning.
丸帯 袋帯は帯の表皮と裏側とが張り合わさって1本の帯になっているのに対し、丸帯は帯巾の倍の幅で織られていますから、その幅を半分にして仕立てられている。そのため片側は縫い目が無く輪になって出来ており、表も裏も同じ織りになっており、解いて開けば帯巾の倍の幅に戻る。最近はこのような丸帯を見かけることはなくなり、重量があるための、コストがかかるのが、その理由と思われる。
Maruobi The maru obi is the most formal obi, with both sides fully patterned along its length. The classic maru obi measures 33cm wide. Maru obi with narrower width can be custom made for a petite client. The maru obi is usually made of elaborately patterned brocade or tapestry, which is often richly decorated with gold threads. It was most popular during the Meiji and Taisho eras. However, due to its exorbitant cost and weight (which makes it uncomfortable to wear), the maru obi is rarely worn today, except for traditional Japanese weddings and other very formal occasions.
半幅帯 お太鼓用の帯幅は八寸だが、この幅を半分にした帯が半幅帯。長さはいろいろあるが、約322cm(八寸五分)が標準。半幅帯の中にも、訪問着や付下げに合わせたい豪華な帯もあるが、多くは普段着や浴衣の帯として愛用されている。
The hanhaba obi is thus termed, as it has half the width of other obis. The hanhaba obi is a casual obi for wear at home, under a haori (kimono coat), with children's kimono or with summer yukata. The fabric and design of the hanhaba obi are simpler to reflect its use for daily wear. Some of the more ornate hanhaba obi is made from a former maru obi. Children's hanhaba obi is often in very bright colours. It is often made with stencilling technique, rather than an elaborate embroidery or weaving. There is also plain black obi, which is often made with the finest silk woven with barely discernable pattern or design. Sombre, yet lovely, plain black obi is worn as part of the mourning attire.
*** 各部位の名称 Kimono parts and details  ***

<<back to index   <<back to vintage1   >>back to vintage2   

index information collection vintage kimono contact